The Mystery of the Metal Heel Thingy

The Metal Heel Clet: Tradition Meets Practicality in Ghillie Brogues

If you’ve ever flipped over a pair of ghillie brogues and noticed a metal plate embedded in the heel, you might have wondered: What exactly is that for? That small yet sturdy component is known as a metal heel cleet (or “clet,” depending on dialect), and while it may seem like a minor detail, it plays an important role in both preserving the shoe and honoring tradition.

In this post, we explore the purpose, function, and legacy of the metal heel cleet, drawing insights from a wonderfully informative video by The Kilted Coaches here. Whether you’re new to Highland dress or a seasoned wearer of ghillies, understanding this small component can add a new layer of appreciation to your brogues.

What is the Metal Heel Cleet?

A heel cleet is a small, crescent-shaped metal plate fitted into the heel of the shoe. You’ll typically see it embedded on traditional ghillie brogues—those elegant lace-up shoes worn with kilts during formal or ceremonial occasions.

At first glance, it might look like a decorative flourish. But in truth, it serves very practical purposes.

Function #1: Heel Protection

Traditional ghillie brogues are renowned for their distinctive style—characterized by features such as the absence of a tongue, extended laces that wrap around the ankle, and decorative broguing at the toe. While the construction of these shoes varies, a common point of vulnerability lies in the heel, especially when the brogues are worn on hard surfaces like concrete and tarmac during those long marches.

Over time, the combination of friction from walking and the constant pressure of the wearer’s weight can lead to noticeable heel deterioration. This wear typically appears in several forms:

• Uneven wear – The heel may erode more on one side, leading to imbalance and potential discomfort.
• Compression and splitting – Repeated impact can compress the heel material, eventually causing it to crack or split.
• Accelerated breakdown – Without reinforcement, the heel can deteriorate at a faster rate than the rest of the shoe.

At Thistle Shoes, we’ve addressed the issue of heel wear by fitting most of our leather-soled ghillie brogues with compound rubber heels, offering enhanced durability and superior shock absorption. Additionally, many of our traditional styles are equipped with a metal cleet—a small, robust plate affixed to the base of the heel. This cleet acts as a protective barrier between the heel and the ground, helping to absorb impact, reduce friction, and significantly extend the life of the shoe by preventing premature wear.

Function #2: Added Grip & Traction

Another reason the cleet exists is to provide better grip, especially on slippery floors or marching on cobbles and modern tarmac roads.

When performing Highland dancing or marching in a parade hall, you don’t want to risk a slip—and leather soles can be slick. The cleet adds a degree of traction (and a subtle “click” when you walk), helping to stabilize each step and give dancers more confidence in their footwork.

Ghillie brogues originated as practical footwear for navigating the rugged terrain of the Scottish Highlands. In their earliest form, they were designed for durability and mobility, often featuring thick leather soles and open lacing to allow water to drain—making them well-suited for wet, marshy ground. At that time, metal components like cleets weren’t necessary; the shoes relied on robust leather construction for protection and longevity.

However, as ghillie brogues evolved from outdoor utility shoes into elements of ceremonial and formal Highland dress, their role—and the environments in which they were worn—changed. No longer exposed primarily to natural terrain, they were now worn on hard surfaces such as wood, stone, or tile. With this shift came the need for practical reinforcements, and the metal cleet became a common addition. It helped preserve the integrity of the heel, reduced wear, and extended the life of the shoe—particularly important for footwear now expected to retain its appearance and structure in more controlled, polished settings.

In essence, the cleet represents more than a protective feature—it symbolizes the transition of the ghillie brogue from rugged Highland footwear to a refined piece of formal Scottish attire, bridging traditional design with modern functionality.

Practical Considerations Before Adding or Buying Cleets

✅ When to Choose Cleets

• You dance or march regularly: Cleets reduce wear and improve footing.
• Frequent formal occasions: They maintain the integrity of your shoes.
• Indoor-heavy use: Cleets shine (literally and figuratively) on polished surfaces.

❌ When to Reconsider

• Soft or polished floors: Metal can scratch or dent delicate flooring.
• Minimal use: If you rarely wear ghillies, cleets might not be necessary.
• Outdoor-heavy use: Rubber or Dainite soles may be a better alternative.

Installation & Maintenance Tips

If your brogues didn’t come with cleets, you can usually have them installed by a cobbler. Proper installation is important to avoid misalignment or damage to the heel.

Maintenance checklist:

• Check that screws are tight (if applicable)
• Inspect for signs of rust or loosening
• Clean around the cleet to prevent debris buildup

Some cleets are fixed with nails, others with screws. Either way, make sure they’re secure before dancing at a wedding or stepping onto a waxed floor!

Floor-Friendly Alternatives

Because cleets can mark or damage some indoor floors, especially wood or tile, many wearers opt for rubber heel protectors or removable cleet covers. These accessories slip over the heel to muffle noise, reduce slipping, and protect floors during indoor events.

In Summary: Are Heel Cleets Worth It?